Nut Sizes:
- Front Motor Mount Castle Nut: 7/16"-20
- Engine Head Nuts (grade 8): 7/16"-20
- Connecting Rod Castle Nut: 7/16"-20
- Ratchet Nut (attaches bottom pulley to crankshaft): 5/8"-18
- Main Bearing Bolt Castle Nut: 1/2"-20
Torque Settings:
- High Compression Head: 65 lbs
- Standard Head: 55 lbs
- Main Bearing Cap Torque 80-100 lbs
- Flywheel Bolt Torque 65 ft/lbs
Stud Sizes:
- Regular Head Studs: 3 1/2" Long
- Water Neck Studs: 5 3/4" Long
Bolt Sizes:
- Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts: Four 7/16-20 by 13/16" Long
- Flywheel Housing to Block: Four 7/16"-14 by 1 1/16" Long and two 7/16-14 by 1 11/16" Long
- Timing Cover Bolts: 3/8"-16 by 1 1/8" Long
- Side Timing Gear Bolts:One 7/16"-14 by 2 3/16" Long and one 7/16"-14 by 1 3/8" Long (lock washers can be used)
Specifications:
- The stock compression ratio was about 4.22:1
- Piston displacement 200.5 cu. Inches
- Bore 3.875"
- Rated H.P. 24.03 SAE
- Brake H.P. 40
- Firing Order 1-2-4-3
- Stroke 4.250"
- Gas Tank
- 28/29-- 10 GAL.
- 30/31-- 11 GAL.
Valves:
- Valve lift .287"
- Seat Angle: 45°
- Stem Diameter: .311"
- Port Diameter: 1 3/8"
- Valve Opening Diameter: 1 3/8"
- Valve Guide Clearance:
- Exhaust: .002"
- Intake: .001-.0015
- Valve Spring Length:
- Free: 2 15/16"
- Compressed Length: 2 1/4"
- Valve Spring Force (compressed): 57-64 lbs.
- Valve Timing:
- Intake
- Opens 7 1/2° before TDC (top dead center)
- Closes 48 1/2° after BDC (bottom dead center)
- Exhaust
- Opens 51 1/2° before BDC
- Closes 4 1/2° after TDC
- Intake
Flywheel:
- Weight: 63 lbs., 4 oz.
- Balance: Within .15 In/oz.
- Clutch Mounting Surface: True with crankshaft within .005" TIR.
- Clutch Mounting Shoulder Diameter: Concentric with crank flange diameter within .005" TIR.
Carburetor:
- Throat Size: 1"
- Float Level: 1" from float to machined surface.
- Main Jet: #63 drill bit
- Cap Jet: #63 drill bit
- Idle Jet: # 75 drill bit
Click Image to Enlarge
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Click Image to Enlarge
Exhaust System:
- Exhaust Pipe: 2" ID (Inside Diameter)
- Tail Pipe: 1-5/8" ID
Miscellaneous:
- To remove a stuck head from a "firing" engine you can loosen the head nuts about 1/8" from the head and start the motor the compression will pop the head up and the motor will stall.
- Crankshaft weight 28 lbs.
- Engine Oil Capacity (From Empty): 5 Quarts
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- Oil Change: 41/2 Quarts
- Spark Plugs: Champion 3X, 7/8"-18
- Spark Gap: .035"
*If you have more information you would like to share please comment it below or email me.*
4 Comments to “-Engine”
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I have a 1929 Model A and a 1930 Model A sedan. I know nothing about how to operate these cars. Can you give me a simple exxplanation on how to get them started. THey have oil in the engine and I put water in the radiator. THey have a switch in both but I do not have the key. Do they have a battery ? I can,t find one on either car. The 29 has a crank.
They have a distributor and are hooked to the plugs with metal strips. Is the throttle on the steering wheel? And does it have a spark control?
They both are in good shape and it was said that they run just fine. THey are for sale but I need to see if they run properly.
THanks for any help you mignt pass on to me. I am not a car guy so sorry for asking dumb questions.
Wayne godfrey
[Reply]
miles reply on July 28th, 2009:
First off thanks for visiting the site. Always glad to help.
The first thing I would do is read through the owners manual located here: http://www.motormayhem.net/mode-a-ford-refrence-sheet/owners-manual/trackback/
You can click on any of the paged to have a larger,more readable version open.
The battery for the vehicle is located under the drivers seat floor board in a tray mounted to the frame just in front of the center cross member. Be sure to remember that it is a 6V battery not a 12V and the chassis ground is the positive not the negative cable.
Starting them is a little more complicated than a modern car, but by no means difficult. First you will need to make sure the gas is turned on at either the bottom of the gas tank (which is the cowl) or where it goes trough the firewall. Then you can insert a key and turn it to the on position. This will turn on power to the spark plugs. Then move the lever on the left side of the steering column all the way up/forward. This adjusts the spark for starting (I cant remember if it is retarding or advancing it). You can then pull the choke rod/carburetor adjustment in front of the passengers seat to choke the engine. Next making sure the transmission is in neutral you can activate the started by pushing the little silver pedal near the firewall between the drivers and passenger seat. Once it starts release the starter pedal and unchoke it. Also you can then set the spark lever around the middle. Be aware I have had numerous starter pedals stick when I release them so you may have to stomp the pedal or disconnect the batteries if you cant get it to shut off.
There is a throttle on the steering column (right side) and a gas pedal. The one on the steering column is used mostly for adjusting the idle higher. The metal strips from the spark plugs to the distributor are stock and are correct.
Whomever is selling the vehicles should be able to start and run them for you if they claim they are in running order. Please feel free to ask me any more questions and I will be glad to answer them as soon as I can.
Thanks,
Miles
[Reply]
Wayne Godfrey reply on August 3rd, 2009:
Thanks for the informtion ! It worked, I got them started.
i have another question! Where do I find the VIN # on these cars? or do they have one?
Wayne
[Reply]
miles reply on August 3rd, 2009:
Not 100% sure here but I think normally the VIN is the engine serial number or the frame serial number. If those numbers match the engine and frame came from the factory together. Otherwise there will be a VIN plate mounted somewhere on the vehicle that was issued by the DMV. When you get them registered you may be given a VIN plate to install as these didn’t have a real VIN when they were made.
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