Nut Sizes:

• Front Motor Mount Castle Nut: 7/16"-20
• Engine Head Nuts (grade 8): 7/16"-20
• Connecting Rod Castle Nut: 7/16"-20
• Ratchet Nut (attaches bottom pulley to crankshaft): 5/8"-18
• Main Bearing Bolt Castle Nut: 1/2"-20

Torque Settings:

• High Compression Head: 65 lbs
• Standard Head: 55 lbs
• Main Bearing Cap Torque 80-100 lbs
• Flywheel Bolt Torque 65 ft/lbs

Stud Sizes:

• Regular Head Studs: 3 1/2" Long
• Water Neck Studs: 5 3/4" Long

Bolt Sizes:

• Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts: Four 7/16-20 by 13/16" Long
• Flywheel Housing to Block: Four 7/16"-14 by 1 1/16" Long and two 7/16-14 by 1 11/16" Long
• Timing Cover Bolts: 3/8"-16 by 1 1/8" Long
• Side Timing Gear Bolts:One 7/16"-14 by 2 3/16" Long and one 7/16"-14 by 1 3/8" Long (lock washers can be used)

Specifications:

• The stock compression ratio was about 4.22:1
• Piston displacement 200.5 cu. Inches
• Bore 3.875"
• Rated H.P. 24.03 SAE
• Brake H.P. 40
• Firing Order 1-2-4-3
• Stroke 4.250"
• Gas Tank
  • 28/29-- 10 GAL.
  • 30/31-- 11 GAL.

Valves:

• Valve lift .287"
• Seat Angle: 45°
• Stem Diameter: .311"
• Port Diameter: 1 3/8"
• Valve Opening Diameter: 1 3/8"
• Valve Guide Clearance:
  • Exhaust: .002"
  • Intake: .001-.0015
• Valve Spring Length:
  • Free: 2 15/16"
  • Compressed Length: 2 1/4"
• Valve Spring Force (compressed): 57-64 lbs.
• Valve Timing:
  • Intake
    • Opens 7 1/2° before TDC (top dead center)
    • Closes 48 1/2° after BDC (bottom dead center)
  • Exhaust
    • Opens 51 1/2° before BDC
    • Closes 4 1/2° after TDC

Flywheel:

• Weight: 63 lbs., 4 oz.
• Balance: Within .15 In/oz.
• Clutch Mounting Surface: True with crankshaft within .005" TIR.
• Clutch Mounting Shoulder Diameter: Concentric with crank flange diameter within .005" TIR.

Carburetor:

• Throat Size: 1"
• Float Level: 1" from float to machined surface.
• Main Jet: #63 drill bit
• Cap Jet: #63 drill bit
• Idle Jet: # 75 drill bit

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Exhaust System:

• Exhaust Pipe: 2" ID (Inside Diameter)
• Tail Pipe: 1-5/8" ID

Miscellaneous:

• To remove a stuck head from a "firing" engine you can loosen the head nuts about 1/8" from the head and start the motor the compression will pop the head up and the motor will stall.
• Crankshaft weight 28 lbs.
• Engine Oil Capacity (From Empty): 5 Quarts

• • Oil Change: 41/2 Quarts

• Spark Plugs: Champion 3X, 7/8"-18
• Spark Gap: .035"

*If you have more information you would like to share please comment it below or email me.*

4 Comments to “-Engine”

1. Wayne Godfrey — July 28, 2009 @ 2:17 pm
   

   I have a 1929 Model A and a 1930 Model A sedan. I know nothing about how to operate these cars. Can you give me a simple exxplanation on how to get them started. THey have oil in the engine and I put water in the radiator. THey have a switch in both but I do not have the key. Do they have a battery ? I can,t find one on either car. The 29 has a crank.
   They have a distributor and are hooked to the plugs with metal strips. Is the throttle on the steering wheel? And does it have a spark control?
   They both are in good shape and it was said that they run just fine. THey are for sale but I need to see if they run properly.

   THanks for any help you mignt pass on to me. I am not a car guy so sorry for asking dumb questions.

   Wayne godfrey

   [Reply]

   miles reply on July 28th, 2009:

   First off thanks for visiting the site. Always glad to help.

   The first thing I would do is read through the owners manual located here: http://www.motormayhem.net/mode-a-ford-refrence-sheet/owners-manual/trackback/

   You can click on any of the paged to have a larger,more readable version open.

   The battery for the vehicle is located under the drivers seat floor board in a tray mounted to the frame just in front of the center cross member. Be sure to remember that it is a 6V battery not a 12V and the chassis ground is the positive not the negative cable.

   Starting them is a little more complicated than a modern car, but by no means difficult. First you will need to make sure the gas is turned on at either the bottom of the gas tank (which is the cowl) or where it goes trough the firewall. Then you can insert a key and turn it to the on position. This will turn on power to the spark plugs. Then move the lever on the left side of the steering column all the way up/forward. This adjusts the spark for starting (I cant remember if it is retarding or advancing it). You can then pull the choke rod/carburetor adjustment in front of the passengers seat to choke the engine. Next making sure the transmission is in neutral you can activate the started by pushing the little silver pedal near the firewall between the drivers and passenger seat. Once it starts release the starter pedal and unchoke it. Also you can then set the spark lever around the middle. Be aware I have had numerous starter pedals stick when I release them so you may have to stomp the pedal or disconnect the batteries if you cant get it to shut off.

   There is a throttle on the steering column (right side) and a gas pedal. The one on the steering column is used mostly for adjusting the idle higher. The metal strips from the spark plugs to the distributor are stock and are correct.

   Whomever is selling the vehicles should be able to start and run them for you if they claim they are in running order. Please feel free to ask me any more questions and I will be glad to answer them as soon as I can.

   Thanks,
   Miles

   [Reply]

   Wayne Godfrey reply on August 3rd, 2009:

   Thanks for the informtion ! It worked, I got them started.
   i have another question! Where do I find the VIN # on these cars? or do they have one?

   Wayne

   [Reply]

   miles reply on August 3rd, 2009:

   Not 100% sure here but I think normally the VIN is the engine serial number or the frame serial number. If those numbers match the engine and frame came from the factory together. Otherwise there will be a VIN plate mounted somewhere on the vehicle that was issued by the DMV. When you get them registered you may be given a VIN plate to install as these didn’t have a real VIN when they were made.

   [Reply]

Write a comment

These are cartoons/information sheets that were used to announce new procedures at aircraft factories and repair shops. They were printed during the 1950's.

Also Here is an old ad I found among the IQ's.

2 Comments to “Aircraft I.Q.’s”

1. jonny blaze — April 7, 2009 @ 5:32 pm
   

   These are awesome, I am amazed at the condition!

   [Reply]

2. mark — December 11, 2008 @ 7:52 pm
   

   it is a B47 bomber. korean war era bomber

   [Reply]

Write a comment

Here is a list of measurements and other information about the Model "A" Ford:

Engine
Transmission
Cooling System
Electrical
Front Axle
Rear End
Body
Miscellaneous
Model A Owners Manual

*Still in the process of adding more so check back soon!*

*If you have more information you would like to share please comment it below or email me.*

4 Comments to “Model A Ford”

1. Randy — May 8, 2008 @ 3:05 pm
   

   I will be surfing this for info..and if you need the measurements for thet 28 Tudor wood I have my top off at this moment and could measure what ever you need..let me know

   [Reply]

2. Pete Holmes — March 24, 2008 @ 8:32 pm
   

   Great sight. It has provided me a lot if information. Thank You!
   I am looking for top wood specifications for a 1928 tudor. I have the equipment to make them but can not find any measurements and mine are missing so I can not copy them. If you can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it Thanks.

   [Reply]

   miles reply on March 25th, 2008:

   I don’t have them on hand, but I have a friend who says he has a book with the specifications. So I will get back to you tomorrow. In the mean time you may want to look at http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ or http://www.mafca.com/

   Glad to hear you like the site.

   Thanks,
   Miles

   [Reply]

   miles reply on April 1st, 2008:

   My friend can’t locate his book at the moment but he said he was going to look for it and post the dimensions as soon as he finds it. I think if you post your question in the Jalopy Journal you may have better luck. You could also locate your local chapter of the Model A Ford Club Of America. There may be a member with a tudor you could measure.

   Hope this helps,
   Miles

   [Reply]

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Welcome to Motor Mayhem. This site is a collection of my interests and hobbies. Here you can find information on projects I have created or shoot the breeze with others. If you would like to become a supporting member click here.

Motor Mayhem is a friendly website for the sharing of blueprints/designs and discussing vehicles and other unique items. We are dedicated to spreading the word of DIY projects that range in difficulty.This site was created and is maintained by miles.