CUCV Technical Info

Here is information I have collected while working on my m1009, but this information can be used for m1008,m1028, m1028A, and any of the cucv series.

The CUCV (Commercial Utility Cargo Vehicle) was manufactured by General Motors for the U.S. government from 1984-1986. They were built from the heaviest duty parts of GM’s light commercial truck division.  The M1009 is a stripped down blazer that has been modified to reach a 3/4 ton load rating while all other CUCV series trucks are rated at 1 1/4 ton.

Known Problems:

Government Issued Manuals Regarding the CUCV:

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  1. TM 9-2320-289-10 — Operators Manual
  2. TM 9-2320-289-20 — CUCV Maintenance Manual
  3. TM 9-2320-289-34 — Intermediate Maintenance Manual
  4. TM 9-2815-237-34 — 6.2L Engine Maintenance
  5. TM 9-2320-289-20P — Parts Manual
  6. TM 9-2320-289-34P — Intermediate Parts Manual
  7. TB 11-5820-890-20-77 — Radio Install
  8. LO 9-2320-289-12 — Lube Order
  9. TB 43-0147 — Paint Specs

Miscellaneous Information:

  • Dot 5 silicone brake fluid (Level should be 1/4″ below top)
  • Power Steering fluid can either be dextron III transmission fluid or standard power steering fluid (Military used transmission fluid do not mix)

Batteries and Alternators

  • Group 31 or 6TLs (Original)
  • Any 800+ CCA batteries would work
  • Dual 100Amp Alternators wired in series for 24V
  • Passenger side alt MUST BE ISOLATED GROUND!


  • 6.2L Naturally Aspirated J Code Detroit Diesel V8 (Slightly higher output than early civilian C code engines)
    • Injector Pump
      • Stanadyne Roosa Master DB2 (Click for detailed information)
      • The estimated life is 100,000 miles. However, in a 25 year old vehicle, the seals are worn out.
      • If you are leaking fuel from the bell-housing cover, it is likely drain off from the IP through a hole in the rear of the engine compartment
      • The first seals to wear out are normally the throttle-shaft seals which are inexpensive but a time consuming job to replace in which the intake must be removed. Also the wearing of these seals normally corresponds with the wearing of the pump itself and it may be better to rebuild or replace the pump if it is original. Rebuilt pumps are usually in the $3-500 range plus a core charge if you don’t provide them with your old one. Getting your IP rebuilt is probably the best thing you can do for your vehicle.
    • Normal Coolant Operating Temperature: 180*F – 230*F
    • Normal Oil Operating Temperature: 180*F – 260*F
    • Oil Pressure: 40 – 50 psi (running), 10 psi (idle)
    • Governor Settings (Governed Speed)
      • Full Load: 3600 rpm
      • No Load: 4000 rpm
      • Idle Speed: 625 – 675 rpm
    • Compression Ratio: 21.5:1
    • Dry Weight: 650 lbs
  • Maintenance:
    • Fuel Filter (Fuel filter base is a common leak point)
      • NAPA# FIL3136
      • FRAM # P3940A
    • Oil
      • 8 Quart Capacity (including filter)
      • Filter is FRAM# PH5, NAPA# FIL1092, ACDELCO# PF1218CL, K&N# HP-3002
    • Thermostat
      • NAPA 381-190
      • Autozone 42995
      • Orielly 42995
    • Glow Plugs
    • Belts (Not for M1010)
      • Driver side alt Gates# 7575/Dayco# 15580/Goodyear# 15574
      • Passenger side alt Gates# 7483/Dayco# 15490/Goodyear# 15485
      • Power Steering Gates# 7448/Dayco# 15455/Goodyear# 15461
    • Air Filter
      • Any standard air filter designated for use in a diesel K5/K30 works
    • 27MT Starter Shimming
      • The 27MT starter needs to be shimmed to mesh properly with the ring gear. Even “no-shim” housings may need to be shimmed. Clearance should be measured per TM 9-2320-289-20. If the starter is removed, it is a good time to check the clearance between the pinion gear and the thrust collar per TM 9-2320-289-34.
      • Starter Shimming Guide


  • Turbo-Hydramatic 400 (Th400)
    • CUCVs should have a factory deep sump pan and a bolt on cast aluminum torque converter cover
    • Dextron III Oil
      • 4 Quart capacity
      • Replace filter ever 2 years or 24,000 miles
        • NAPA#  ATP14558,
        • FRAM#  FT1020A (w/gasket)
    • If running oversize tires or towing an external cooler is HIGHLY recommended in addition to the water to oil cooler in the radiator

Transfer Case:

  •  NP208 aluminum chain driven transfer case (M1009/M1008/M1028/M1010)
  •  NP205 cast iron gear driven transfer case with PTO abilities (M1031)
  • Dextron III fluid
    • 5 quart capacity
    • Level should be 1/4″ below filler plug


  • M1009
    • 10 bolt axles front and rear with 3.08 gears and a Gov-Loc in the rear (Not Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear like some believe)
  • All other CUCV’s
    • Dana 60 front
      • Front Capacity 4.5 Quarts
    • 14 Bolt FF rear with Detroit locker and 4.56 gears (some have a true-track locker in the front as well, but it is rare)
      • Rear Capacity 5.4 Quarts
      • M1028 needs GM additive

Lights/Blackout Lights

  • The right toggle switch moves power to the service lights, horn, dash, etc (up position) or to the blackout lights (down position). Pull it out and flip it up or down.
  • The left switch turns on the blackout drive light. Flip it up or down; it will return to center position.
  • If your lights suddenly don’t work, check the right toggle switch.


There are multiple options to get a tach installed in a CUCV the simplest being a digital tiny tach ( the fuel injection lines on the CUCV are 1/4″ OD. The CUCV alternators also have a tach output on the alternators so that can be used for certain tachometers as well.

CUCV Fuse Box:

Fuse Panel

Some information on this page from

120 Responses to “CUCV Technical Info”

  1. Albert says:

    1987 m1008 diesel ! The guy l bought it from says 6 quarts of oil , the dipswich even has the full mark at 6 qu arts . Everything l read on the computer says 8 quarts . Have l got the wrong dipstick and does this motor really hold 8 quarts ? Help !

  2. Bruce Ferreira says:

    fun and games with a engine wanting to start on its own. Replacing the starter relay with a dog relay tomorrow. the power block has me confused tho. ( wires smoked) I can figure out the blue wire but there are 2 orange and on that loks like a dirty orange or a brownish tan color. Nothing in the 9 manual is helping. Any ideas ?

  3. Larry ,Farris says:

    Hi I have a 1986 k5 m1009 blazer. The problem is it won’t hardly go. It’s as though it has no power at all. I can floor it and it won’t hardly go. Could someone please help me figure this out. Thank you.

    • Matt says:

      My M1009 is running rough so I’m pretty sure it’s time to change the fuel filter. My question is I’ve watched the procedure online. Is it really necessary to open the valve on top, and unhook the electrical wire, etc? Will it not fill up with fuel without doing all of this? Also, are the fuel filter’s hard to get and/or are their part numbers to convert to the more conventional screw on type?



      • Phil says:

        The fuel filter can be found at any local NAPA parts store. Just ask for a 85 diesel Blazer. You may want to change out the air filter at the same time – also availible at any NAPA.

      • Freda says:

        Yes and if hard to start (like outta gas) prime the system with that on top of the fuel filter the wires are for the water in gas light when u turn the key on. There is no where to put a screw on filter. U gotta think outside the box with these. A whole new ball game for me.

    • Matt says:

      Larry I’m no expert but the fuel filter definitely seems to clog up in this cause all kinds of problems.

      • Red says:

        I fund just putting a spin on filter solves all the problems no more worry about o ring cracking and giving out just get A WTX Filter and you are set. You can even get a pressure gauge some even have priming buttons to do a quick change.

  4. Angela says:

    hey guys,
    I recently purchased an ’86 1009 and have scoured the tm’s provided here to no avail. There is a silver box (roughlt 5 or 6 inches long and 2-3 inches wide located on the passenger side fire wall by the positive and negative blocks. Problem is there is what looks like a vacuum fitting on the top left of box, but nothing attached. The truck seems to shift a little hard at slower speeds (trans. fluid is good) could this be a transmission vacuum line? If not where should it go, or should it be capped?
    Thanks all!

    • miles says:

      The silver box on the passenger side is your fuel filter. They are known to start leaking in the part that mounts to the firewall so be sure to check to see if it is leaking. A common mod is to replace the fuel filter base with a new screw on or cartridge style filer assembly. The vacuum line for the transmission goes from the vacuum pump located in the valley of the motor near the firewall (its hard to see with the air box on) to the passenger side of the injection pump (the vacuum modulator valve). This valve controls the amount of vacuum the transmission sees based throttle position to allow the transmission to know how much load the engine is under and then vary the shifts accordingly. From there the line is a series of rubber and steel lines down the passenger side of the motor to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. I would trace the lines and see if the rubber sections are dry rotted or broken. You might also need to adjust the vacuum modulator on the transmission or the valve on the side of the injector pump. FYI firm shifts are better for the transmission than soft/smooth sifts because the clutches are slipping for a smaller amount of time.

    • Freda says:

      It’s bleeder valve for the fuel/filter system

  5. […] A page of interest on CUCV's » CUCV Technical Info &raquo Motor Mayhem […]

    • Matt says:

      I have a 85 M1009 that has been great. I’m active duty and bought it from the Army which my troops think is hysterical. Anyway, I lifted it and put a track lock in the front, does the rear gov-loc require a friction modifier? I don’t see anything in the mnx manual?



  6. Ms Ellen S. Robison says:

    I hope you got my message. It didn’t say whether or not it went through or not. I need help with locating the wiper motor unit on my 1986 CUCV M1008. Thank you.

  7. Shelbe says:

    I am looking for the wiring Diagram For Chevy k 30 6.2 Diesel for 24v to 12v Conversion??

    • miles says:

      The standard wireing diamgrams for the truck can be found in the TM’s and from that you should be able to see what wires you need to modify to convert to 12V. I don’t have a diagram for converiting to 12V since I don’t convert any to 12V. Why do you want to convert to a full 12V system? There is no real need to convert (truck can still be jump started, etc) and a 24V starter and what not draw less amps/spin faster when starting which is nice.

  8. Mike says:

    Take a look at TM 5-2520-551-24 it has instructions on hooking a tach to the 6.2 liter GM like the CUCV. If you cannot find a copy of the manual check Jatonkam. Look at the CUCV list. The later 6.5 turbo diesel the tach does receive the signal from the alternator.

  9. William says:

    I have 1986 Chevy M1008 6.2 banks turbo sidewinder, wonder whats recommend for oversize of tires be good of pulling of daily driver 37″ or 40″ w. What’s inches 6″ or 8″ lifted thanks

  10. Craig Houghton says:

    There is a relay behind the instrument panel. It is close to the center, it is taped to the harness. This is the relay that engages all the regular lights. I believe it says service lights on the switch. It is just a standard relay. The same kind you use when you install fog or driving lights.

  11. You can get in contact with me. I have a M1009 that I converted to a pickup it is a bad ass ride. I also have wheels and a vast inventory of CUCV parts.

  12. BRIAN says:

    I was having similar problems with my generators after replacing them, I simply stripped open the wiring harness and ran all new wires to both generators. I no longer have any problems with the charging system. A few hours of labor goes a long way. 85 m1008 cucv

  13. Dustin James says:

    Hi thanks. For having this site does anyone know the gross combined weight rating for an 85 m1008?

  14. Daniel says:

    Any way to hook a tach to this engine that anyone is aware? I have the civilian model, a 1983, but would sure like to have a tach. NObody has been able to tell me. Would appreciate your input.

    • miles says:

      I installed a tach in mine. I used a diesel tiny tach. It clips on the fuel line and reads injection pulses. I also have heard the alternator may have an output some diesel tachs can read. The other option is to install some magnets on the flywheel or harmonic balancer to sense.

  15. stefan says:

    Hi there I was wondering if anyone had electrical schematics to the ignition sys.I have a 86 cucv p/u that had a bad starter , rebuilt the starter and it ran until something popped in the circuit. I have che ked all fuses and the fusible links all are ok..when you hit the ignition,the gen 1light goes out after a relay clicks for the glowplugs .They both stayed on until the engine was running before . Any info.on this would be great.Nice site!!

    • miles says:

      Gen light should stay on until the engine starts and the alternator is putting out power. All the wiring schematics are in the maintenance manual TM

  16. Azm1008 says:

    Great info! Rebuilt my IP because of this info. Great idea.

  17. Joe Yosten says:

    Sir, recentlty purchased a CUCV D30, 1009, (1986 chevy). Took it to a diesel mechanic, he suggusted converting it from 24 volt system to a 12 volt system. Your thoughts on this process? I know the starter and the glow plugs would have to be changed, to a 12 volt system. What else would have to be changed??? I live in a colder part of the country, and am unsure if 12 volt system is the way to go? Could you let me know.

    Thank You…
    Joe Yosten

    • miles says:

      Converting the system to 12v is basically just changing the starter, removing the glow plug resistor bank behind the engine on the firewall, wiring the batteries in parallel, and removing one of the alternators. The rest of the truck is 12v from the factory. There isn’t much benefit to converting the system to 12v as 90% of the truck is already 12v and the 24v starting system is a little better in the cold as far as I can tell. I would assume he wants to convert it to make it easier to work on, but the 24v system is pretty straightforward to learn, plus it keeps the truck more original.

  18. Drew says:

    i am looking for a set of 15×8 6 lug steel rims that came on CUCV Blazers, i am trying to make a CUCV M1009 short bed truck
    any out there for sale?

  19. Jeremy Pearson says:

    Hey, all!

    Just brought home my 1985 m1008 6.2L today. Drove it for the first time (no test-drive allowed), a 60-mile trip home, and no issues, thankfully! However, I was painfully aware of the rpms being so high, even at 55mph. No tachometer built in, but the engine was humming at a pretty high pitch.

    What kind of rpms are you getting at higher freeway speeds? I can’t imagine they’re very good for the engine; is it simply that the 3-speed transmission is not designed for highway driving? Would a whole new transmission be needed if I were to drive 55mph+ regularly?

    Thanks for responding; this is one of the only sites I’ve found with people posting real-world experiences with the CUCV’s.

    Thanks Miles, and all!


    • miles says:

      Thanks for the thanks. Assuming you are running stock 31″ tires with the 4.56 gears in the stock axles you are running about 2872rpm at 55mph. That is pretty fast for that engine. The engine makes max torque around 1800-2200rpm which also roughly where you will get best milage. At 2250rpm you are running about 43mph. I would say if you plan on taking it on trips or what not regearing the axles,changing the tire size, or swapping transmissions might be a good option. The M1008 is built for low speeds and lots of torque. This website is pretty helpful for checking what drivetrain combinations you might want:

      I run 4.10 gears and 36″ tires which puts me at about 2200 rpm at 55mph and thats usually what I cruise at, but I tend to be a little conservative since my driveshaft angles are also pretty dramatic.

  20. Harold says:

    I have a 1985 3/4 ton military chevy truck I have changed the volts from 24 to 12. brake lights and all lights were working . now brake lights dont work nor does blinker or hazards work. All marker lights including headlights are working. what could be the problem?

    • miles says:

      Sounds like a fuse or loose connection or ground. Unfortunately, since it was converted to 12v from 24v the wiring could have been modified so its hard to say what could be wrong. I would suggest first checking the fuse and then buying a multimeter or test light to check for power at the sockets and tracing the wiring from there checking for power along the way to see how it is currently hooked up and where your power is being lost.

      • Ed says:

        Just bought a k5 24v military having electrical problems first the the starter now the ignition wire is constant hot an then my alternator stop charging anyone with info on these in at the pinot of ripping my hair out of my bald head……. please Hit me up

  21. Phil says:

    I have a 1985 M1009 with a 6″ lift and 35″ wheels with a TH400 3-speed auto. I run it off-road and on the beach and I am concerned about the tranny overheating. Do you recommend getting an external cooler? If so, what external cooler do you recommend for the transmission? How difficult is it to install something like that. My experience working on these goes as far as changing the 24v to a 12, lifting it, changing the transmission fluid, brakes, and stuff like that.

    • miles says:

      I would defiantly run a cooler. I run one for rock crawling and driving when its 105+ *f outside. They aren’t too hard to install, basically all it involves is plumbing the fluid from the outlet on the radiator cooler to the input on the air cooler and then the output from that to the return line to the transmission. Mounting the cooler is up to you, but usually involves driving a few holes in the radiator support and running some flat strap to suspend the cooler in front of the radiator. I would get the biggest cooler you can find/can afford.

      This isn’t the best picture, but you can see my cooler behind the grille:

      • Phil says:

        Thanks for the advice Miles! Should I ever worry about the transmission fluid getting too cold? I doubt that should be a problem for me in North Carolina (rarely does it get below 20*F here, usually hot and humid). I guess I am wondering if you use a switch or something. Also, do you run a trans temp gauge or any other gauges than the idiot lights in the gauge cluster?
        Thanks again

        • miles says:

          The best way to prevent the transmission from running too cold is to run the transmission fluid through the radiator cooler and then the air-cooler. The heat exchanger in the radiator also helps warm cold fluid since the water in the radiator is 190*f. I believe they do make thermostats if you really want to get serious about keeping your transmission warmer in the winter. I don’t run a trans temp gauge on this truck ( I do on my cummins) but I do run an engine temp gauge and put the sensor where the sensor for the idiot light was. If you did want to run a trans temp gauge the best temp to read is the hot line out of the transmission as close to the torque converter as possible. This will give you the hottest temp of any fluid in the transmission and an early indication when things start to get hot.

  22. Sergeant1983 says:

    Coming up on my 1st oil change and wondering if any 30 wt oil is preferable too. Also I always use Restore in my gas engine vehicles and was considering using it as well.

  23. Jon says:

    I’m wondering what sae 30 oil to use?

  24. Jimmy B says:

    check fly wheel , they will make a knocking sound when they crack. crack around center,

  25. Morgan says:

    I have a 1986 m1009 and a slight knocking sound just started last night. Any ideas on what it could be?

    • miles says:

      I would need a little more information to help. Is this noise coming from the engine or some other part of the truck? Does it vary with engine RPM or speed?

  26. Tomislav says:

    Hello, dear sir!
    I’d like to know what kind of battery should I use for a 1985 CUCV 1010 6.2L V8 vehicle, what Amps an Volts, is there some kind of brand of batteries you prefer. I’m also facing a problem of belt changing and lack of belt on my market, so if you can tell me what kind of belt is it for my 6.2 L V8

    • miles says:

      I’m not sure on part numbers for the M1010 as they are different than the rest of the CUCV series due to their 200A charging system, but I did find some info from user HoJoPo on

      Needing some for my M1010, I was able to find some information about the alternator belts, cross referencing the part number from the maintenance pub:

      Top alternator belt, 42-6919, .5 width, 59 inches outside length.

      Bottom alternator belt, 42-6921, .650 width, 51.250 inches outside length.

      As for batteries, anything that fits in the tray and its at least 750-800CCA should work.

  27. Kevin says:

    I have 1984 m1008 chevy 6.2 , when I turn ignition on glow plugs will not come on. Fuse is good, new glow plug 24 volt solenoid, new glow plugs. If I jump wires on solenoid glow plugs come on. thanks kevin

  28. Maria says:

    Hello, I have a military CUCV 1009 (year 1983) that I bought in germany, I am not sure about the quantity – in litres – of the fluid for the transmission box.
    I have to change the filter but my meccanic does not know how much to put in.
    I have read above that it should be ” Approx 4 quarts”. (how much is it in litres? )
    Does that mean it has to be just over the “checkered” zone on the measure rod? (hot engine idling)?
    Thank you to anyone who can help a lady in distress 🙂


    • miles says:

      4 Quarts = 3.79L Which should be just to the top of the checkered area of the dip stick with the engine running and warmed up and the transmission in park.


  29. Ralph says:

    Thank you, I’ll check things out !

    • miles says:

      No problem glad you enjoy the site

      • Ralph says:

        Hello again !
        Ref; the last question, your suggestions etc.
        I was talking with a USAR Mech at the Milwaukee USAR center in Milwaukee this past week, they have a small PX so stop by sometimes, mentioned the problem and he mentioned also it could be the rear, rear most drive shaft U Joint is losse, should be replaced ? which checking when I got home does have a small slip to it,noticed also it was a small slip to it when I greased that area, rear most U joint, so maybe that could be a possible problem ? suggestions ? he also as you mentioned the front wheel bearings, seals maybe should be changed / replaced, not knowing when and if ? it was or ever had been done ?
        Everything with the steering front system is tight and not losse that I can see or find out, needed a good grease job for sure and I should replace the seals / boots as needed sometime, hard to know when it was done last for sure ? a former WI National Guard M 1009, lack of care, the Fort McCoy base Maint.folks used it also for running around post I found out when I got it up there.
        Was from the WI 32 Bde, former Milwaukee based unit.
        Thank you, Ralph

        • miles says:

          Thats cool you got the history of your 1009. It could be the rear U-Joint, but that normally would make the truck shake vs. shaking in the steering wheel. If there is play in that rear u-joint it should probably be replaced anyway before it lets loose. When you jack the truck up see if there is any play in the front wheels and if they spin smoothly that will tell you if you need to replace the front wheel bearings.


  30. Ralph says:

    7 12 2012
    Today I finally took my M1009 CUCV 1984 out for a good test drive, fianlly the collector WI plates arrived to do so !
    Engine runs fine, electiric good, trans fine and all in order.
    The only item that I noticed is that 40 to 45 and above MPH the front shakes ? and steering coloum.
    Lower speeds fine.
    I did notice that none of the wheels have weights ?
    Maybe could be the problem ?
    Suggestions please ?
    Also I have just gotten a ” Shift Indicator ” kit NSN 2540-01-147-5537,
    GM # 25078571
    I did look at the TM, not really good INFO ?
    Suggestions please how to install !
    Thank you !
    Ralph G
    Retired USA

    • miles says:

      Sounds like a pretty classic case of “death wobble” I would check the ball joints, tie rod, drag link, and the rest of the steering system. I would also check the lug nuts and wheel bearings. If it is just a slight vibration then it could be the unbalanced wheels, but from your description it sounds more serious than that.
      As for the shift indicator, if you remove the dash panel (screws all around the perimeter) then you can access the shift indicator fairly easily.


      • Ralph says:

        Sounds like a pretty classic case of “death wobble” I would check the ball joints, tie rod, drag link, and the rest of the steering system. I would also check the lug nuts and wheel bearings. If it is just a slight vibration then it could be the unbalanced wheels, but from your description it sounds more serious than that.
        As for the shift indicator, if you remove the dash panel (screws all around the perimeter) then you can access the shift indicator fairly easily.

        Hello again !
        I was talking with a USAR Mech at the Milwaukee USAR center in Milwaukee this past week, they have a small PX so stop by sometimes, mentioned the problem and he mentioned also it could be the rear, rear most drive shaft U Joint is losse, should be replaced ? which checking when I got home does have a small slip to it,noticed also it was a small slip to it when I greased that area, rear most U joint, so maybe that could be a possible problem ? suggestions ? he also as you mentioned the front wheel bearings, seals maybe should be changed / replaced, not knowing when and if ? it was or ever had been done ?
        Everything with the steering front system is tight and not losse that I can see or find out, needed a good grease job for sure and I should replace the seals / boots as needed sometime, hard to know when it was done last for sure ? a former WI National Guard M 1009, lack of care, the Fort McCoy base Maint.folks used it also for running around post I found out when I got it up there.
        Was from the WI 32 Bde, former Milwaukee based unit.
        Thank you, Ralph

  31. […] CUCV Technical Info » Motor MayhemWellman 070 or AC 60G; Relay– NAPA# ST85; Control Card FLMV-CUCV.htm. Belts (Not for M1010). Driver side alt Gates# 7575/Dayco# … […]

  32. Anthony says:

    hey guys i was woondering if someone can help me i have a 1985 m1009 cucv. one day when i was driving i got stopped at a light. as i was waiting for the light the truck just shut off. when i tryed to restart the truck there was no power at all. so i figured that maybe the alt was bad and the batterys have died so i tryed to jump the truck and got nothing. so i have started pokin around with my power probe to find out that both batterys are fulled charged. But i still dont have any power. i mean the headlight or dash lights wont even flicker. I have check the fuse box under the dash and i have power to a couple fuse. i have been to a couple sites and can not seem to find a wiring digram on this truck. so i ask all u chevy lovers please help me out if u kno something or have had this problem. thanks anthony

  33. jaybone says:

    I had the same problem with my m1009
    look under the dash and on the left side is a ground wire that connects to the sidewall near the pull vent. Unplug it and clean it. Will work like a charm.

  34. don kennedy says:

    i have a m1028 shelter and was wondering if it has a governor on it cause when i try to go over 55 it makes a noise and front end shakes. it stops when i pull over then its fine

    • miles says:

      They are typically governed between 3,400 and 3,600rpm. However, if you are getting front end shaking that is not caused by the governor thats a suspension problem. I would start by checking lug nuts, ball joints, wheel bearings, leafs (u bolts, alignment guides, and spring to frame shackles).

  35. Wicc says:

    Ok have gone through the tm’s and can’t finds my problem. O and I’m a regular on steel soldiers. I start my truck m1009 1985, volt guage sits low and after a few minutes it gets higher. Not as high as it should. But when it does this I hear a click somewhere under the dash. When I use it everything can be used unless I use the lights , wipers, and anything else. It will be in the red. Checked and took off the alternators and they test great. I’m at a loss.

    • miles says:

      I would check the fusible links between the alternators and batts. Then I would check the grounds and exciter wires. I believe the 24V side alternator has a relay that is supposed to go on with the ignition which may be what you are hearing.

  36. Ralph says:

    Thank you, for the response ! re-reading the TM, I must have to take the side mirror unit off and entire vent window unit ?
    I’ll try your contact ! I have read the site before, NICE ! THX ! Ralph US Army retired !

  37. Ralph says:

    4 6 2012
    I am trying to reaplace the driiver side door glass on my 1984, CUCV M 1009, reading the TM 9 – 2320 – 289 – 20, pages 10-23 thru 26 seem some what confuseing ?
    What is the best way to install the channel and glass back in ?
    Suggestions please !
    Would be nice if the holes to be able to get your hands were larger ?
    Should the glass window channel be glued on the glass ?
    Picked some of the rubber channel from the OMS shop at the USAR in Milwaukee, WI. nice guys for some help, but don’t want to bother them to much, was given some new PS PUBS also. new of course, not for the CUCV’s like I remember there was many up dates for them etc ! wish I would have taken them with me when I retired from the USA ! I think 72 pages alone were related for the CUCV family.
    Thank you, Ralph Geigner West Bend, WI

  38. Michael J. Yatteau says:

    I have a 1985, M1009 and recently I have noticed a small leak from under the steering wheel area. What looks and feels like oil is on right side of the driver side floor mat, it seems to appear when I get in the tuck in the morning. Is this typical? I heard leaks will arise and happen, but I still want to address and identify what exactly is going on. Does anyone know what is going on here or has anyone encountered the same issue? I thank you for this site, and the chance to find hard to get info!

    • miles says:

      A leak on the drivers floorboard that feels oily could be a leaking brake master cylinder. It could also be the heater core which is located between the seats.

  39. Luke says:

    I have the exact same problem on my M1009. No running lights, backup, blackout, turn signal, ect. Any luck? Where can I begin to look. Any help would be great and thanks

  40. duane says:

    Is there a plug in the M1009 for a radio harness. Where is it. If not, what wires do you plug into?

  41. KEVIN says:

    What part numbers do you have for the brakes (front and rear) for my 86 M1009?

    • miles says:

      Which numbers are you referring to? The brakes should be the same as a same year 4×4 k30 pickup truck.

      • KEVIN says:

        Miles……Thanks a bunch this should help. I was asking about the brake pads for numbers. No one around me knows nothing about these blazers (M1009)

        Another question…….I’m usually run about 50lbs of oil pressure but now pussing 75 or 80lbs. I just changed the oil for winter (15×40) and this only lowered it for a few days but again it’s up. What do now? I heard to not use a FRAM filter but don’t know if this is true!

        • miles says:

          I’m not sure why the oil pressure would have changed that much. Look in the TM for intermediate maintenance to see what the benchmark for oil pressure is. I think it would be in the section regarding diagnosing the oil pressure light. Does the oil pressure come down after the engine is warmed up?

      • miles says:

        I just realized you said m1009 not m1008. In that case it should have the same brakes as a same year diesel blazer (just make sure they are for the GM 10 bolt axles) as your m1009 has GM 10 bolt axles front and rear with the rear have a gov-loc locker. The m1008 (pickup) has a Dana 60 front and a GM 14 botl FF rear with a detroit “no spin” locker.

        Sorry for the confusion,

  42. Ralph says:

    Hello !
    Does anyone know ? what PS MIL PUBS, issue #/date etc.
    ( the neat little Military like comic books )
    That dealed with the M1009 / CUCV, that will be helpful for general needs, knowledge ?
    Where is a good online source for the PS PUBS ?
    Thank you ! Ralph

  43. Ralph says:

    Hello ! I’m looking for a drivers side door glass for a 1984 M 1009 CUCV, part number 14022841 , NSN 2510-01-155-5435, any suggestions for a source ? good prices also for a good contact for M 1009 CUCV future parts needs etc ? Also looking for hard copies of TM’s and Operators manual.
    Thank you, Ralph

  44. Dan Smith (Chapel Hill, TN) says:

    I am in need of the bottom end motor block, the CUCV truck I have is in perfect shape, new tires, etc.

    The engine blew and I’m trying to find a replacemet to purchase.

    Thank you, Dan

  45. Brian U says:

    Just bought ’86 M1008 and surprise! No headlights, brake lights, running lights, dash lights or horn. The blackout lights dont work either but I do see cut wires at rear bumper for one side. The wipers and blower do work… I suspect the lighting control switch…but how do I verify? Thanks

    • miles says:

      Try looking in the TM under the troubleshooting section. It does sound like that may be the culprit. Could also possible be a blown fuse.

  46. jeff Doyle says:

    What is the brand and part number for the 24 to 12 volt resister to reduce volts to the glow plugs. thx jeff

    • miles says:

      I dont know off the top of my head, but I would look in the TM manuals linked to on this page. Because the civilian trucks didn’t use that system I think it will probably be harder to come by. If you cant find it you could always bypass the resistor and hook to the 12V system, but that would only draw from the front battery.

  47. murry says:

    Need to pick some ones brain got a m1028 shelter but has the m1010 wiring 1 altinater nevvell 28 volt u can call text e mail 931 588 8683 thanke you just need help and I can’t figer it out

  48. Tisa Branker says:

    Very Cool

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